WELL GROOMED; BRIDES GET ALL THE ATTENTION

Byline: Barbara Schneider-Levy

Love is in the air at Footwear News. Two staffers recently announced their engagements, sparking much conversation about wedding attire. But while brides know exactly what they want to wear down the aisle, do their grooms?

The oft-neglected half of a happy couple, today’s man has just as many fashion options as his future wife. From a traditional black tux worn with a classic bal to an edgy cream linen suit paired with sandals, guys are making wedding style statements of their own.

And recent research reveals that there are plenty of men marching down the aisle.

According to the 2006 American Wedding Study conducted by the Cond Nast Bridal Group (owned by FN parent company Cond Nast Publications), some 2.3 million weddings will have taken place between 2005 and 2009.

And in what might come as a surprise, the study also found that weddings occur at a steady rate year-round - not just in the popular June-to-September time frame - creating a steady 12-month business for retailers.

Making the industry even more appealing these days, spending on brides’ and grooms’ attire has increased more than 30 percent within the past four years. The study also found that couples preparing to marry had average household income estimated at $74,000 for 2005 - higher than the U.S. Census-determined national average of $46,326 in 2005 - so they’re primed to splurge on the big day.

To find out how to get grooms off on the right fashion foot, FN went to the experts for some style guidance. Brian Coats, senior fashion and market editor for Cond Nast Publications’ GQ, had some suggestions for guys who’ve decided to go the tuxedo route. A peaked-lapel version is one of his personal favorites. It can be chic in either one- or two-button styles, he said, adding that in a tux, “there’s a more elegant aura about the guy.”

When it comes to footwear pairings, Coats likes the look of black patent leather shoes, especially styles from J.M. Weston done on a narrow, but not-too-pointy, last. “It says young, but doesn’t alienate an older guy,” he said. If the groom really wants to rebel when it comes to his footwear, Coats said, J.M. Weston also does a patent wingtip. “[The groom] can have fun with the shoe. It’s off the beaten path,” he added.

Velvet is the material of choice these days at A. Testoni, according to Andrew Tastad, managing director of the Italian label’s New York headquarters. The company offers a black velvet slip-on with a crest detail on the vamp, done on an updated elongated last. The classic look, he explained, is ideal for the gentleman who is buying a Brioni or Kiton tuxedo and wants to dress it up without being too trendy. For the more traditional customer, there’s a velvet one-eyelet tie on the same last, well-suited to a fall or winter wedding.

The rules are really changing when it comes to footnoting formalwear, according to Joe Molinaro, product director of men’s for Carlstadt, N.J.-based Bruno Magli.

“A man today doesn’t really consider the classic patent leather shoe as an option for his wedding day,” he said. Instead, he’s more likely to wear a smooth leather plain-toe two-eyelet derby that would carry the high shine needed for the occasion.

French footwear designer Jean-Michel Cazabat likes the traditional yet fashion-forward look of a navy suit and white shirt teamed with white shoes. “I think it is really cool and [matches nicely] with a bride’s white dress,” he said. But Cazabat said patent remains his personal favorite, citing a pair he offers in white with silver glitter.

“Any color patent leather could be great,” he added. “I love colors in formal men’s shoes so they don’t look too classic.”

It’s the retailers, however, that are on the front lines when it comes to wardrobing today’s grooms.

Keith Carlisle, men’s department manager at Dallas-based Stanley Korshak, said even when it comes to formal looks, guys are getting more adventurous. He recently had a client who exchanged vows in Mexico wearing a tuxedo with an open-neck wing-collar shirt. His shoes? Simple black monk straps from Sutor Mantellassi.

Destination weddings, in fact, are increasingly popular these days. According to the American Wedding Study, 16 percent of couples plan such events - up 400 percent over the last 10 years. A more casual, relaxed setting “puts a lot of spin on what [grooms] wear,” said David Smith, owner of Dallas-based men’s specialty store Pockets Menswear.

For a Cancun wedding, Smith suggested a white linen [suit], perhaps worn tieless; for footwear, a pair of leather thongs or John Varvatos ’70s-inspired huaraches.

And then there are those who opt to forgo footwear altogether.

At Varvatos’ own nuptials this past summer, in Southampton, N.Y., on the beach, the designer wore ultra-casual attire of a white deconstructed canvas jacket, white jeans and white cotton voile shirt - and went barefoot.

Caption(s): Designer John Varvatos puts a creative spin on what’s wedding-appropriate.